記事: How Tennis Shaped Men’s Fashion
How Tennis Shaped Men’s Fashion
Few sports have shaped the way men dress quite like tennis. The polo shirt, the crisp white palette and the cable knit V neck all started out on the court, and each has long since found its way into everyday wardrobes. But how did a game played on Victorian lawns come to influence the clothes we reach for today?
Tennis can be traced back to medieval France, where a game known as jeu de paume was played by striking a ball with the palm of the hand. It was first enjoyed in monasteries and later became a favourite at royal courts. Rackets were introduced in time and the game evolved into what we now call real tennis, with Henry VIII among its most enthusiastic players.
The version we know today is much younger. In 1874, Major Walter Clopton Wingfield patented a lawn game he named Sphairistikè, a mouthful that was thankfully shortened to lawn tennis. It spread quickly through the country house lawns and private clubs of Britain, and in 1877 the first Wimbledon Championships were held at the All England Croquet Club. The rest, as they say, is history.
What they wore
Early players dressed much as they would for any summer afternoon outdoors. Long-sleeved shirts, ties, flannel trousers and even blazers were the norm, which can hardly have been comfortable on a warm day. White was the colour of choice, as it was considered the most discreet when it came to perspiration, and Wimbledon upholds the tradition to this day.
Change came slowly, but it came. In the 1920s, French player René Lacoste swapped the starched collar and long sleeves for a short-sleeved shirt in soft piqué cotton, giving him far more freedom to move. Not long after, Britain's Bunny Austin caused a stir by taking to the court in shorts, and Fred Perry, who won three consecutive Wimbledon titles in the 1930s, helped make the polo shirt a household staple. Casual and comfortable had arrived, and menswear has never quite looked back.
It wasn't only shirts that were reinvented. Between sets, and on cooler days, players pulled on a knitted sweater to stay warm without restricting their movement. The classic version was cream, cable knit and V necked, finished with a contrasting stripe at the neckline and hem. It is often associated with the American champion Bill Tilden, and it bears a close resemblance to its cousin from the cricket pitch.
Like so many sporting pieces, it soon moved off the court. Ivy League students adopted it as part of their wardrobe, and it became a cornerstone of preppy style, worn over a collared shirt with an easy sense of polish. Today it remains one of the most recognisable shapes in classic knitwear.
How tennis inspires Colhay's
As a menswear company that champions classic design, we find ourselves returning to the history of tennis time and again. Our approach is always the same: keep what has worked for decades and refine what could work better.
Our cashmere silk tennis polo is a good example. It takes the familiar shape of the polo worn by players of the 1930s and brings it to life in a fibre that is wonderfully soft, a world away from the stiff cotton of the early days. The result is a polo shirt that is equally at home on a warm evening or under a jacket.
Our Coach Polo shirt follows the same thinking. Made in Japan from 100% extra-long staple cotton, it is designed for warmer weather. One of the most important details is the sleeve, which finishes around 2.5 to 3 inches above the elbow. This is a little longer than a traditional polo, and we find it gives a more elegant finish and avoids the boxy look that short sleeves can sometimes create.
For the cooler months, our Cashmere Polo Shirt carries the same idea forward. It keeps the recognisable polo shape that Lacoste and Perry helped to popularise, but in cashmere, giving it a warmth and softness the original could never offer.
Then there are our V necks and cable knits, which nod to the tennis sweater while remaining very much wearable for today. They are easy to style, whether layered over a shirt in true preppy fashion or worn simply on their own.
Tennis began as a refined pastime and has become one of the most quietly influential sports in the history of menswear. The polo, the sweater and the all-white palette are still with us, proving that good design really does stand the test of time.
If you're looking for a polo to add to your wardrobe, you can explore our full collection here. Our Style Journal is full of ideas on how to wear them, and as always, if you would like personal advice, please feel free to get in touch.
